III.1. WINE AND FOOD
Apulia is a land of flavors, aromas and colors that remain engraved in visitors’ memory forever. Over the centuries at one time or another in its history it has been ruled by the Greeks, the Romans, the Normans, the Saracens and the Bourbons and in turn they all influenced the culture of this fascinating region. This explains the vast assortment of typical regional dishes mainly based on homemade pasta, bread of bygone years, meat with the aroma of pastures, cheeses of ancient tradition and a great variety of fish dishes that have all contributed towards its prestigious gastronomic heritage.
In fact, when speaking of Apulia one cannot help but talk about the rich and tasty cuisine that this wonderful land offers.
In Apulia the climate is mild all year round with long dry and ventilated summers and short warm winters which are the ideal conditions for a Mediterranean cuisine par excellence linked to ancient customs. We are speaking of centuries-old traditions and methods that are still used in the preparation of typical regional dishes. Starting from the north, we find the “Tavoliere”, exclusively dedicated to pastureland for years until at the beginning of the nineteenth century it was converted to the cultivation of wheat that completely transformed the landscape; in fact, the area was nicknamed “Italy’s granary”, name with which it is still known today. The coast of the “spur of Italy”, Gargano, is famous above all for its fish products. The province of Bari with its well-known coastal towns, has a hinterland characterized by the cultivation of grapevines, almond trees and above all of secular olive groves, the symbol of Apulia. Proceeding southwards, we come to Brindisi and Taranto until we arrive at the “heel of Italy”, Salento, with its vineyards, olive groves, almond orchards and prickly pears. These provinces also offer excellent fish, fresh vegetables and a wide choice of delicious local cheeses.
In a region where the sun shines for most of the year, naturally much of the land is dedicated to the cultivation of a great variety of fruit and vegetables. One of these is the “lampascioni”, bitter to the taste and ugly at first sight, covered with soil. They are onions, belonging to the Muscari family that despite their unattractive appearance are becoming increasingly popular with gourmets. They can be eaten prepared in a simple way, just boiled and dressed with olive oil, or baked. They are also found in jars conserved in a sweet and sour sauce. A typical legume used in Apulia’s cuisine is the broad bean. Broad beans are pureed with olive oil and served with other vegetables such as chicory and turnips, or blended with one or more of the many vegetables this land offers. Other typical vegetables of this area are the delicious “cardoncelli” mushrooms and red onions and then of course there are the tomatoes and naturally olives, a fruit that deserves particular attention. Driving through this region, along the country roads that connect one village to another, along the roads that lead to the sea, the beauty, the greatness, the silvery-green vegetation and the harmony that these secular trees transmit to the observer is unique and the olive groves are an intrinsic part of this region’s wonderful landscape. Apart from being a beautiful sight to the eyes, the fruit of these trees is a fundamental ingredient of Apulia’s gastronomic tradition. Olives are found everywhere in Apulia; on the counters of food shops, on market stalls and the stands set up in villages when the Patron Saint is celebrated, on the table of every home and in the cafes served as a tasty snack with aperitifs. Olives are still preserved at home in the traditional way according to ancient recipes handed down from mother to daughter. Bay leaves and fennel seed are often added to enhance their flavor. One of the most ancient and simple ways of preserving olives is in ash. Those who are fortunate enough to have their own olive grove harvest the olives and take them to the nearest mill where they are pressed and transformed into genuine olive oil which is used either as a dressing or to cook with.
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Every year in Apulia around three hundred thousand quintals of olives are harvested; about twenty thousand are consumed fresh while the rest are preserved in various ways. Among the best known varieties there are: “Bella della Daunia”, “Grossa di Spagna”, “Ascolana Tenera” and the big, black shiny “Baresana”.
A fresh, savory, appetizing foodstuff that is always found on the dining table in Apulian homes is cheese. There are so many cheeses produced in Apulia that they satisfy all tastes. The typical cheese par excellence is undoubtedly “cacioricotta”, an excellent fresh cheese that can either be eaten on its own or grated on typical pasta dishes such as “orecchiette” served with a fresh tomato sauce. And then there are “burrata”, “mozzarella”, “stracciatella”, “caciocavallo”, “giuncata”, “scamorza” and for those who love more intense tastes there is a strong “ricotta”, known in Apulia as “ricotta scanta.”
As regards pasta, bread and other wheat derivatives, there are too many to mention them all but particularly worthy of note are “orecchiette”, Altamura bread and “frise” all of which are used in recipes to create delicious dishes to discover and to taste.
The first mention of handmade pasta dates back to 1504 in a cook book entitled “il libro della cocina”. Since then, over the centuries, forming the mound of flour, making the same gestures handed down from mother to daughter and with the help of the same cooking utensils – a rolling pin, a knife and a pastry board – “orecchiette”, symbol of Apulia’s cuisine, have been made. Depending on the city where it is made, this type of pasta is given a different name in the local dialect, typical of the place in question. In Foggia if the pieces of pasta are small they are called “chiancarelle” or “pociacche” if they are big. In Bari and Taranto we have “récchie”, in Brindisi “stacchiodde” and in Lecce “ricchie” or “ricchiscedde”. “Orecchiette” are prepared following an ancient ritual that is still repeated today in the kitchens of Apulian families. Other widely used types of pasta are “cavatelli”, “spaghetti alla chitarra”, “troccoli” and “strascinati”.
Another ancient, traditional and original specialty are Apulian bread rings or “frise”, “frisedde”. They are made from durum wheat flour that has a high bran content and is cultivated in the Salento area or from whole-meal flour. Usually before eating they are sprinkled with cold water and then seasoned with tomatoes, olive oil, salt, oregano or as one prefers. In the past “frise” were eaten on the beach and sprinkled with sea water after which they were slathered with plump juicy tomatoes.
And then, naturally, this region washed by the sea offers the possibility to eat fresh fish. The custom of eating raw seafood is widespread and mussels and sea urchins caught on the spot are just sprinkled with lemon. It is in Apulia that the recipe for marinated anchovies was born; the freshly caught fish are simply cleaned, filleted and left to marinade in lemon juice. It is also the region where it is possible to eat “pulpe rizze” or curled octopuses. This specialty is typical above all in the province of Bari. Fairly small octopuses are used and after they have been caught they are they are beaten on the flat rocks. Once their dark leathery skin has been peeled off they are placed in basket and shaken for about an hour with a technique that only the fishermen know. After this “treatment” the tentacles curl up and the octopus becomes so tender that it can even be eaten raw.
The mild climate, the sun and the shade of the olive trees also favor the growth of the typical aromas of the Mediterranean maquis such as rosemary, capers, sage, hot pepper, mint, marjoram, thyme and garlic. These aromas, used abundantly in Apulia’s cuisine, are the final touch to the regional recipes that gives them their inimitable taste.
Vegetables such as tomatoes, aubergines, artichokes, peppers and prickly pears preserved in oil or pickled are another gastronomic specialty of this region.
I would now like to suggest some typical regional recipes that are delicious and easy to prepare. I have chosen some of the recipes that I know best and have had the pleasure of eating in Apulia, enjoying not only the products of the region but also breathing the air of this enchanted land. If you have the chance of eating them in Apulia it would be better, but if not at least I can describe and explain with pride some typical dishes of my land in the hope that this will convince you to visit it if you have never been there. Enjoy your meal!
“Orecchiette” with turnip tops
500 g spelt “orecchiette”;
1.5 Kg turnips;
2 cloves of garlic;
2 boned anchovies;
100 g of “pendolini” tomatoes
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Hot pepper and salt to taste;
Grated sheep milk cheese;
Extra virgin olive oil.
Sauté the cloves of garlic in a pan in olive oil until lightly browned; remove from flame, add the anchovies and stir them with a wooden spoon until they dissolve. Add the halved tomatoes and fry until they wither. Salt to taste and add the chili peppers.
Put the turnip tops in a pan of hot salted water. Choose only the flower buds and the most tender leaves and cook over a lively flame. When they are three-quarters cooked add the spelt “orecchiette” and boil until the pasta is cooked.
Drain the pasta well and place in a warm tureen. Pour the sauce with the “pendolini” [1] tomatoes over the pasta and sprinkle with the grated sheep milk cheese. Stir well, season and serve hot.
Note: “orecchiette” are certainly the gastronomic symbol of Apulia, however, spelt or barley “orecchiette” are the gastronomic symbol of the Salento region.
“Orecchiette” can also made with plain or whole-meal flour.
Mashed desiccated broad beans with chicory
500 g white desiccated broad beans;
One peeled potato;
One small onion;
Garlic;
Extra virgin olive oil;
One ripe tomato;
One stick of celery;
Brindisi chicory.
The evening before cooking, soak the broad beans in cold water with a teaspoon of salt. The following morning, drain the broad beans, rinse them well under running water, put them in an earthenware “pignata” [2] and cover them with cold water. Add a clove of garlic, the whole onion, the raw potato cut into thin slices, the tomato and the stick of celery. Salt to taste. Bring to the boil and cook for an hour over a lively flame. Remove the foam that forms with a skimmer from time to time. Stir with a wooden spoon and when the liquid has almost completely evaporated remove the garlic, the celery and the tomato. At this point, lower the flame and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the broad beans and potato become a fluffy puree. Remove from heat and fold in the chicory leaves that meantime have been cooked in abundant salted water then drained and shredded. Blend in the remaining olive oil, season with salt and pepper and serve warm.
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“Cupeta” (almond brittle candy)
1 kg peeled almonds; 1 kg sugar.
“Cupeta” is Lecce’s traditional sweetmeat sold on street-stalls on Saint Lucy’s Day and throughout the whole Christmas period.
Cut a quarter of the peeled almonds into tiny pieces with a knife, place them with the remaining whole almonds on a baking tray and toast in the oven until golden brown. Put the sugar and half a liter of water in a concave saucepan and heat over a medium flame stirring continually with a wooden spoon. When the water has evaporated and the sugar has dissolved but is still clear, add the toasted almonds and keep stirring until the sugar has densified and reached a temperature of around 145°. The sugar will now be turning a light amber color. Remove the saucepan from the heat and pour the mixture quickly onto a slightly oiled marble surface. Spread the mixture evenly with a metal spatula until it is roughly 1 cm thick. Cool and before it hardens too much cut the “cupeta” with a large knife into the desired shapes. Leave to harden completely and wrap the pieces in greaseproof paper.
After having spoken of Apulia’s traditional cuisine and some of the typical regional dishes, it is time to speak of Apulia’s wines. Apulia is a land rich in vineyards from whose grapes several excellent wines are produced and are an important and essential complement of the “noble art” of gastronomy.
Especially in the past, when the men came home after a hard day working in the fields, they found a tasty plate of food and a glass of good homemade wine waiting for them on the dinner table.
Today, consumers simply purchase their bottle of wine and enjoy drinking a glass of it without being aware of the fears, the anxieties and the trepidation the farmers have to face before harvesting the grapes that will become the bottle of wine that goes to complete their meals. In fact, the farmers worry about frost when the grape flowers are about to bloom; they are anxious about the possibility of heavy rain and especially hail when the grapes are nearly ripe.
Usually, when people speak of Italian wines those from Veneto, Friuli, the Abruzzi or from Sicily spring to mind and unfortunately many forget that more wine is produced in Apulia than any other Italian region. The reason is probably because Apulia’s wines are not as well known as other Italian wines because for a long time they were used to “cut” wines produced in other regions and to enrich wines with a low alcohol volume.
Fortunately, in the last few years, thanks to local entrepreneurs, the situation has changed. Certain of the quality of their vines, they decided to introduce them on the market alone and offer the public unique wines produced solely from local grapes. This was the case of “Negroamaro”, “Primitivo”, “Uva di Troia”, “Malvasia” Black and “Bombino” white and black. Their decision led to the introduction of new technological machinery that improved the quality of Apulian wines which are now greatly appreciated not only in other regions of Italy but also abroad.
Today, Apulia boasts 25 CDO (Controlled Denomination of Origin) wines with 128 different preparations comprising red, rosé, white, fortified, sweet and sparkling wines.
Puglia:terra incantata tra MarIonio e MarAdriatico 